BBJ Interviews REDKEN Artist & Color Consultant David Stanko

Earlier this week, I trotted on over to the REDKEN Exchange on 5th Avenue, along with some other bloggers, to chat with REDKEN Artist & Color Consultant David Stanko. David filled us in on a little REDKEN background info. In 2010, REDKEN will turn 50. The brand is famous for its ability to renovate themselves constantly. Until REDKEN, hair and nails were believed to be made of calcium. REDKEN took it upon themselves to educate people that hair is in fact, made of proteins. Fun fact: REDKEN's scientists were called upon in the '60s to help out with crime scene investigations to determine the ethnic origin of hair found on the scene - because they knew hair that well.

David told us all about Redken Chemistry, a customized in-salon treatment using advanced technology and salon expertise to meet your own unique hair care needs. Says David, "Redken Chemistry provides protein and moisture to repair, strengthen and smooth the hair from the inside out; and the Shot Phix locks in the specialized ingredients for lasting results."

The two-step in-salon service costs only an additional $15-22! This treatment prepares hair for color services and repairs hair from environmental or mechanical abuse. The process leaves hair super soft, but bouncy with volume as there's no need to bake under heat like in times of hair yore. "You'd leave with hair like Marcia Brady's," says David. "Really smooth hair, but it's flat and plastered to your head." Who wants that? Not you, dolls.

1. Shot Phase: Specialized ingredients compensate for missing components in hair. Each shot contains a more conentrated dose of some of the same nourishing ingredients found in the corresponding take-home hair care regimes. Redken Chemistry offers six Shot Phase formulas to address common hair needs including strength, moisture, color, protection, softness and frizz control:

Extreme Shot Phase deep treatment weakened hair
Color Extend Shot Phase deep treatment for color-treated hair
Clear Moisture Shot Phase deep treatment for normal-to-dry hair
All Soft Shot Phase deep treatment for dry, brittle hair
Smooth Down Shot Phase deep treatment for very dry, very unruly hair
Real Control Shot Phase deep treatment for dense, dry, sensitized hair

2. Shot Phix: Acidic spray-on lotion formulated with REDKEN's Interbond Conditioning System to lock in the specialized ingredients in Shot Phase, rebalance the pH levels of hair, and seal the cuticle. Stylists select the appropriate Shot Phix that corresponds with your hair's stress level. You'll receive either 3.5 for chemically-treated hair or 5.5 for slightly distressed/mechanically-distressed hair. Mechanical distress, BTW, refers to damage from heat tools resulting in swelling cuticles and split ends. Chemical distress results from highlighting, Japanese Straightening procedures, etc. David mentioned he should write a book on the subject of mechanical distress called Is it Bangs or Breakage? Hilar.

David offered this tip for breaking up with a hairdresser: "Say you got a gift certificate to a new salon and you went in just for a blow-dry and were pleased with the results."

Another tip from David for those who have hair that sucks up product immediately in a spongey/absorbant manner: it's the direct result of "lacking something in the wet phase." For those gals with wildly dry sponge-esque locks, he recommends REDKEN Real Control Shampoo and Conditioner. It infuses dry, sensitized hair with moisture for FAR more manageability. It's a bit too much for my hair to use both the shampoo and the conditioner, but after a highlights sesh, I enjoy using the shampoo with a less intense conditioner.





David performed the procedure on the lovely Margaret. Check the before and after:


























The finished 'do (directly above) was smooth, shiny and FULL of bod without a single prod. Truly magical. I'm scheduling a treatment ASAP.

To find a salon featuring Redken Chemistry, click here or call 1-800-REDKEN8.

BBJ Interviews Redken's Creative Consultant, Guido Palau

Guido Palau has entered my special club of fave British stylists. There are only three in this club: Kevin Ryan, Ben Skervin, and now, REDKEN Creative Consultant, Guido. He's absolutely HILAR. His delivery and inflection is such that he should moonlight as an SNL regular. I caught up with him last week along with some other beauty editors and bloggers. Here's what he shared with us.

Q: What are the trends for Spring/Summer 2009?

A: It's difficult to define. It's the antithesis of red carpet hair. Classic, but with a twist. It was a challenge, but I was able to achieve it with the help of REDKEN products. I was able to redefine textures. For example, at Prada I created a classic chignon with Quick Dry 18 Instant Finishing Spray and overlacquered it for a more modern look. All the things they say not to do, I did. It's beautiful, but not a look for real life.

At Peter Som, I did a half up half down look. I used Fabricate and added some baby powder to craft a matte texture. I love to use products like fashion accessories. That's how you reinvent a classic shape - with products that make them look new to the eye.

Q: Tell us about REDKEN's repackaged heat products.

A: I love these! They really pop out because of the bright red packaging. These products are dual purposed because they protect hair, but also start to work better with heat. It's a great time for hair because it's not as damaged as it used to be, thanks to products like these.

Q: How do you get inspired to create a look for a fashion show?

A: I've done shows since the early '90s. I've learned by now to create the woman the designer envisions - his or her woman. Within their parameters. I take pleasure in creating a runway look that's inspiring to real women.

Q: What can you tell us about beauty within the last 15 years?

A: The perception of beauty has changed. The whole idea. 15 years ago, grunge was the thing. "Undone" hair has become chic. Perhaps we'll again enter a period of grunge because of the recession. Who knows? I won't get political. Because I don't understand it.

Q: What does your woman look like? The one you envision?

A: I think beauty is in how you WEAR it. It's individuality. When I see someone with the ubiquitous waves with smooth roots, I think, "where are the guts in you?" I admire anyone who's different. When a woman is just... herself. Those kinds of women inspire me. Occasionally, a woman I've seen with tremendous style on the street will pop into my head and I'll regurgitate the look for the runway.

Q: What was your favorite show you've worked on?

A: So many. I love Prada for its womanliness. Louis Vuitton is very visual with its bags and necklaces. From head to toe, it's so DONE. Very fashion show. I adore Balenciaga because... it's Balenciaga. There's always a ponytail. Each girl is part of the ensemble. It's such a vision - impactful. It's not about a real woman. Ralph Lauren appreciates the natural beauty of each model - it's not as much about trends. He also sees no need for consistency. Each girl is different. It's a very American view. For Ralph, it's not uncommon to see a girl with her hair down walking behind a girl with her hair in a bun - because that's how she looks best.

Q: Where are you most inspired geographically?

A: London has a love of hair. There, they use it as a way of identifying. It's my favorite "hair place." They'll do something radical with their hair. The city has a sense of arrogance. New York is more conservative. The girls there don't step out quite in the same manner as Londoners do. But then, I become used to the New York look. And I'll go to the airport in London, see people waiting for their families and think... ew. I become used to each city after being there for a while. Nuances are important in each city on the street.

Q: What are your tips with regard to applying product?

A: Don't just STARE at the products and think you'll have hair like Cindy Crawford - USE them. Just because it says it'll add body doesn't mean you don't have to put in any legwork.

Q: When is hair "natural" and when is it simply a mess?

A: It's hard to explain. For instance, on Kate Moss, it almost always works. If you say it works - it will. Confidence is the key to pulling off most styles. It's simply a belief system. Kate Moss PROJECTS that she looks amazing. And she does. For naturally messy (but still "done") hair, I recommend Fabricate, a side part, and a bobby pin. Also, on the beach, doesn't everyone think their hair looks fantastic? It's simply because on the beach, you're relaxed.

Q: Tell us about the Marc Jacobs show. How did you handle doing 70 models' hair?

A: Marc's shows are always somewhat like a pop concert. Trying to do a loose wave on 70 girls, all with very different hair can be challenging. Some turn out great, but other times... you get nothing, or worse: you get the Pussycat Dolls. My advice is to do a tighter curl than you want because it will drop. Don't curl the ends. It's a fine line and trust me - I don't always get it right. Getting the same texture on lots of girls can be a nightmare.

It's kind of like the 60s girls. The cooler ones had just the right amount of bouffant. The cheaper ones were far too ratted up. Now, the cheaper girls have too much curl to their wave. The cooler girls have just enough.

Redken On the Set of Sunshine Cleaning

Sunshine Cleaning, released on March 13, features Amy Adams, Emily Blunt, Alan Arkin, Steve Zahn and Clifton Collins Jr. Tangentially, don't you think Amy Adams and Emily Blunt have the most divine hair color in that movie? Let's get some deets on how they maintained on-set.

Sunshine Cleaning hair designer Voni Hinkle used Redken products to ensure everyone’s hairstyle lasted all day and was protected from the bright camera lights and hot New Mexico sun for during the day-long shoots. Voni styled the looks by prepping both Amy Adams' and Emily Blunt’s hair with Redken Color Extend Shampoo and Conditioner to protect their color from the fading. She also used Outshine 01 Anti-frizz Polishing Milk on their hair before blow-drying for extra frizz protection. Lastly, Voni finished both girls' hair with Quick Dry 18 Instant Finishing Spray. “Quick Dry 18 Instant Finishing spray was light and non-intrusive,” said Voni.

Voni prepped the men's hair with Redken For Men Go Clean Shampoo followed by Finish Up Conditioner to clean hair from product build-up and add moisture. She also added a bit of Polish Up Pomade and worked it through damp hair for light control and high shine. On Clifton Collins Jr., she used Outshine 01 Anti-frizz Polishing Milk and then rough-dried it, finishing with Forceful 23 Super Strength Finishing Spray for added control to his extensions. “Redken is one of my favorite lines to use on-set. It's perfect for protecting hair from the effects of filming outside in the sun or under bright camera lights that can damage hair,” noted Voni.

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Redken's Amping up for Summer

Redken recently hosted a select group of bloggers in NYC for an event with Redken's Creative Consultants for Color Tracey Cunningham (pictured, left) and David Stanko (pictured, below) to tell us all about the brand's new collections for summer.

PS? Tracey's hair is the most gorge auburn color I've ever seen. Even better? It's NATURAL. You and I both know I asked. A colorist with the most phenom natural color. It's almost poetic.

"People have not given up on their hair color. You take shoes off but not your hair," Tracey told us. "They're making sure their hair color is in good condition--even in this economy."

Though roots remain a losing battle, blonde color requests still reign supreme. "You want the blonde to frame the face for a brighter effect," explained Tracey. But Tracey maintains that you need to have the right base shade to go blonde. And only a select group should go Cameron Diaz circa 2002 blonde. If your hair is darker, she suggests going red. Hollywood redheads Isla Fischer, Amy Adams and Lindsay Lohan have inspired the masses to get in touch with their inner redheads.

Proper shampoo and conditioner is the most important thing: make sure you’re saving the integrity of your color. Fading is inevitable, but these protectant agents help. "When you lose the color, you want to get your hair done," Tracey mentioned. "You can go longer between salon visits when you use the right conditioners."

Speaking of salon visits, David Stanko told us that the redkencolor.com houses a hair glossary so you can study pre-appointment. Genius! No more "you think THAT'S caramel?" conversations. Color terms mean different things to different people. This site's aim is to streamline the process by educating the consumer and hairdresser.

"Blondes don’t have as much pigment," David told us. "So they're more susceptible to dulling and fading." David then went on to give us an overview of the new collection. Check the details below.

The Blonde Glam Collection includes:

Haircolor: Color Fusion 12Av, 9Av, 7Av; Double Fusion Blondes Titanium; Double Fusion Browns Titanium; and Shades EQ 07V Crushed Amethyst, 08V Iridescent Quartz
Lighteners: Blonde Icing Power Lift and Ammonia Free
Haircare: Blonde Glam Perfect Platinum Color Enhancer and Blonde Glam Rich Vanilla Color Enhancer

The Blonde Glam Haircolor Collection targets colorists and clients who are looking for the perfect cool blonde. These shades can be used on dark to light bases to create the most gorge blonde tones that are vibrant during the day and pop at night. Designed to create every type of cool blonde from icy platinum blondes to cool dark blondes, the Blonde Glam Haircolor Collection gives colorists the resources to refresh cool blondes, tone down warmth, and lift high and add cool tones.

NEW COLOR FUSION ASH/VIOLET SHADES

The Ash/Violet color family has been reformulated to be even cooler than before – matching the trend of cool, icy-blondes. These shades include:

• 12Av: Creates ultra pale cool blonde
• 9Av: Creates very light cool blonde
• 7Av: Creates medium cool blonde

NEW DOUBLE FUSION TITANIUM SHADES

Available in both Double Fusion Browns for darker bases and Double Fusion Blondes for lighter bases, lift high while infusing hair with icy-metallic hues for optimized control of warmth when lifting.

• Color Fusion Double Fusion Blondes New T: Creates metallic, cool light blonde
• Color Fusion Double Fusion Browns New T: Creates metallic, cool brown

NEW SHADES EQ VIOLET SHADES

David says these are like top coat for nails and lip gloss for lips. Redken is expanding the VIOLET family into levels 07 and 08, the new VIOLET shades add condition and shine to any cool blonde while controlling unwanted yellow tones. New shades offerings include:

• 08V (Iridescent Quartz): Creates light, cool blonde
• 07V (Crushed Amethyst): Creates medium, cool blonde

NEW BLONDE ICING POWER LIFT

Gals who desire fast and powerful lightening ability can now experience the new Blonde Icing Power Lift, which provides conditioning lightening ability for all bases and hair types. Blonde Icing Power Lift features faster and higher lift, better conditioning with exclusive Lumisilk Technology, and a new, creamier formula. Per David, it mixes to a cake frosting consistency. "Blonde can go south on you looking dry," David noted. "This product has lots of conditioners to counteract that for clean and clear blonde looks."

AT HOME HAIR CARE

As an extension of the Blonde Glam haircare, the NEW Blonde Glam Color Enhancers allow you to achieve the most stunning blonde from start to finish, reviving drab highlights and revitalizing blonde hair. The lightweight gel and cream formulas deliver an even distribution of color enhancing pigments and intense conditioning and strength without weighing down even the finest of blonde hair strands.

Blonde Glam Perfect Platinum: designed for consumers with ultra-pale to light blonde hair or highlights who wish to keep their cooler blonde strands from turning brassy.
Blonde Glam Rich Vanilla: designed for consumers with warm blonde hair or highlights who wish to keep their locks on tone.

The COLOR EXTEND COLLECTION has been reformulated with Cranberry Oil for extra conditioning properties.

• Color Extend Shampoo: Gently cleanses while providing anti-fade protection, increased vibrancy and shine to color-treated hair.
• Color Extend Conditioner: Detangles and provides protection from fading agents while restoring color vibrancy.
• Rich Recovery: Provides anti-fade protection, improved manageability and intense replenishment to color-treated hair.
• Total Recharge: Detangles, strengthens, and reinforces the cuticle while revitalizing color-treated hair with powerful protection and radiant shine.
• Shine Enrich: Helps protect haircolor while helping to seal split ends, smooth fly-aways, and
impart mirror-like shine.

Color Extend is available now
Blonde Glam Haircolor Collection will be available in April 2009
Blonde Icing Power Lift will be available in May 2009
Blonde Glam Color Enhancers will be available in June 2009

Visit redken.com for authorized retailers.

Fashion Week: BBJ Backstage at Chris Benz

Hair at Chris Benz was GORGEOUS... but highly complicated.

"Is this math?" I asked REDKEN lead stylist John Ruidant when he explained how he achieved the highly intricate, very complicated look he designed based on an uptown girl in the late '70s/early '80s headed downtown for a night on the town. I haven't been this confused since my mandatory Calc class I took my freshman year at BU.

And I KNOW from hair, girls. But even the most copious notes didn't allow for a good step-by-step how-to on this one. I'll put in a request to REDKEN for deets for that. Stay tuned. I do think it's lovely, however difficult it may be for a lay(wo)man to pull off at home. I can tell you that it incorporated REDKEN Hot Sets 22, REDKEN Fabricate, REDKEN Workforce Hairspray and a lot of backcombing.

The best part is that all the while, John is explaining this 'do (which just SOUNDS so hard to do), he's actually DOING the 'do, I'm assuming, under pretty high pressure. And he's ALWAYS cool as a cucumber. Every time I interview him. I'm not unconvinced that he's not actually at the tents. I think he's actually in Tahiti and is mentally projecting himself at New York Fashion Week in hologram form or something. Like Al from Quantum Leap. I've never seen anything like it.

Daniel Martin, Lancome makeup artist interpreted the "uptown girl gone downtown to a danceteria" vision using Lancome cosmetics. Complexions were intended to look blown out, as they do when photographed by a polaroid camera. To achieve this look, Daniel used powder and foundation two shades lighter than the models' own skin tone. Eyes were enhanced with three colors: Lancome Cream Liner in Indigo (smudged on with fingers), Lancome Eye Shadow in The New Black, and famed Lancome Color Fever Gloss in Piha Black for a "slept in" effect. Tons of Lancome Hypnose Mascara was used on both top and bottom lashes. Lips were a matte beige that mixed Lancome Cream Blush in Chic Cassis applied with fingertips with Lancome Le Rouge Absolu Lipstick in Beige Cashmere.




Deborah Lippman headed up the nail team on staff backstage at Chris Benz. Three colors were incorporated, reflecting the primary color focus of Chris' collection. The not-yet-named Lancome shades used are an electric blue with shimmer, a temperate red, and a soft gold metallic. "The red is not warm, but not cool," Deborah explained.



The back of John's hair concept.


















A close-up of the "danceteria eye."


Image credit: Beauty Blogging Junkie

#NYFW

Stay tuned for my coverage of the Chris Benz presentation!

François Nars Leads Makeup Team at Marc Jacobs

After a ten-year hiatus, François Nars, founder and creative director of NARS Cosmetics, returned to the fashion runway by leading the makeup direction for Marc Jacobs’ Autumn/Winter 2009 show.

It included working with 65 models, and creating 65 different makeup looks. Check one of the many that I liked most pictured at left. I imagine REDKEN's Guido (lead stylist for hair for Marc Jacobs) had his work cut out for him with regard to the myriad of hair looks as well.

Nars’ unexpected return to fashion week can be attributed solely to Marc Jacobs. “We’ve known each other since the beginning so it was really fun to work with Marc again. I really love what he does,” said Nars.

TREND: Night clubbing – theatrical makeup – strong eyes, porcelain skin

Inspiration: The Marc Jacobs Fall 2009 collection paid homage to the New York night club scene of the 1970s and ‘80s. Drawing inspiration from these decades and the works of Sprouse, St. Laurent, and Halston, François Nars took into consideration each model’s individual beauty before creating a separate edgy look, reminiscent of the past but still very modern. "We are doing quite an eclectic look," he said. The inspiration for diversity came from Nars’ book XRAY. “[Marc] wanted to keep that feeling,” said Nars, “the variety of looks, the same way we do the campaigns for NARS.” Overall, it was important that each girl look beautiful, even with strong theatrical looks. Much like the fashion, Nars emphasized having fun with makeup for the coming year, despite the times we live in- “It’s a good antidote.” Francois, I like your attitude!

Strong eyes and bold color were a major theme. Black shadow laid the foundation for creating the dramatic eye, to which the artists added cobalt blues, deep greens, bright purples, reds, fuchsias, and glitter. See the photo of the various NARS colors used, left. “There is a wide variety of color,” said Nars, “it’s whatever looks good on the girl.” For many of the models, porcelain skin was a key component, allowing the black eyes and bright colors to pop.

“You want to play with makeup,” says Nars, “makeup is a great accessory - that is the message.”

Image credit: NARS Cosmetics

#NYFW

Glamourous Fergie at the Vanity Fair and Krug Dinner

Fergie looked gorge last night with her spicy new hubby Josh Duhamel at the Vanity Fair and Krug Dinner at the Chateau Marmont, hosted by Keisha Cole.

Rodney Cutler, celebrity stylist and owner of Cutler/Redken salons created her glamorous 40’s inspired look.

Rodney's simple steps on achieving Fergie’s ‘do:

1. Start off by spraying hair with Cutler Protectant Treatment Spray to protect hair from heat damage. Then, spray with Cutler Volumizing Spray to add a little volume and rough dry.
2. Next, wrap pieces of hair around a 1/2 inch curling iron, created spirals. Spray each section with Redken 09 Workforce Hairspray before curling.
3. Create a side part and over-direct hair so that hair sits flatter at the front. Brush out with a Mason Pearson brush to create an airy modern texture.
4. Pull hair back to one side, twisting slightly, and secure knot with bobby pins.
5. Finish with Redken Workforce 09 Hairspray for a long-lasting touchable hold.
   

Cutler Protectant Treatment Spray and Volumizing Spray are $21 each and can be purchased at Ulta.com and BeautyIntuition.com.

Redken Workforce 09 is $15 and is available in salons. For more information, visit Redken.com.